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A friend picked this up recently for a reasonable price and asked me about making the repair. I said I would take a look at it. I've never done a repair like this (not a repair guy) but the ones I've seen like this that folks have shared make it seem like a not too complicated repair. From what I've read HHG and Titebond work for a clean break and epoxy if there appears to be some gaps in the great. I think it was John Hall who suggested gunstock epoxy on another thread. What kind of suggestions do you experienced folks have?
Thanks in advance for the help.
https://reverb.com/item/207600-77-carvi ... -headstock

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Kyle

Looks dead simple from here. Titebond and good clamp job for 24 hours. Touch up the finish, and hand it over to the client. If you are worried about strength of the repaired joint, rout two 1/2" deep slots through the joint afterwards, and glue in some maple splints. Touch up the finish.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Looks like a clean break on the glue line.
Do what Chris said, he always gives good advice.

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

Appreciate the nod, but I do have mistakes in my past.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

+1 on what Chris said. The break looks clean and at a good angle to be glued up at.

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久保
美智え

A couple of thoughts. Wax the inside of the truss rod slot on the headstock (car wax) and as much as you can reach on the neck, to keep any stray glue from penetrating it. Loosen the truss rod to neutral and wax as much of the rod as you can. Q-tips are handy here. Even better if you can find a big straw to slide over the rod. Make a small caul that has the shape of the neck sanded into it. Line it with leather or EPDM. This will give you a place to clamp without as much risk of denting the neck. Put scotch tape on either side of the fracture, as close to the edge as you can. The glue shouldn't stick to the tape and it will keep the height of the glue line to the thickness of the tape. Much less to sand. Make sure there are no loose fibers, if you find any, remove them. Use a stiffer bristle brush to apply the glue so you get full coverage into the valleys of the grain. I have one in the clamps right now. I'll post some pics if you're interested.

Thanks for the replies. These suggestions are about what I was thinking. Thanks for the tip on waxing the truss rod, I was wondering what to do there. I would love to see the pics of the one you have clamped to get an idea of how to go about clamping securely.

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Kyle

Even though no one has ever talked about it, I had some concerns about the headstock creeping under clamp pressure. So I made a quickie jig that has slots to match the frets and some EPDM to cushion it against the fret board. This also gives me a safe surface for the bottom face of the clamps to tighten against, and you aren't putting pressure on the frets. The headstock is kept from moving forward. Even though I had 3 clamps on the break, there was plenty of room to swab out the excess glue squeeze out. Wet Q-tips are your friend here. I clamped it up Friday night. I'll take it out of the clamps tomorrow afternoon. There were some pieces missing, so when I get the clamps off I'll start filling the voids. I'll try to shoot a gloss finish for the neck, but if that fails, I'll satin it with some 2000 grit sandpaper.

http://s735.photobucket.com/user/bushite/library/